[y0rk1e]

Just thought i'd ask in case anyone else has had this.

Fitted heated, electric mirrors to a 1.8 LS.
Connectors were there however there is no power to the switch.
Looking at electric diagram there should be power to the switch which feeds mirrors.
Heated mirrors are powered by mirror relay.

Questions are as follows.

Thought mirrors were linked into heated rear window demist. Is this not the case?

Which is the best way to wire power to switch thus enabling mirrors?

If anyone has sorted this and got some tips i'd be happy to hear from them.
thanks inadvance.

[ASTOBBS]

So you're saying the mirrors wont MOVE from the adjuster switch?

But that they are heating when you have the demister on?

Check fuses for a missing fuse.

[y0rk1e]

Already had fuse in, checked to see if blown but A-OK.
Mirrors don't move, were checked before fitting A-OK. Heated mirrors not sure waiting for another frosty night. However the strange thing is that before i put the mirrors on the rear heated window switch light NEVER came on.
Now it lights up! How weired is that?

I'm thinking i have to get the trusty volt-meter out on sunday.

Just thought i'd ask in case anyone has had the same problem.
Have worked my way through the wiring diagram just in case.
Who knows might do a "How to" wire from the fuse box..

[matt-m]

If the mirrors are heating up you can feel it even if its not a cold day check what fuses are in the fuse box there is a seperate one for the mirrors looks like a mirror diagram.

It may be a good idea to check with volt meter there may be a break in a wire or the mirror switch may be faulty ?

[y0rk1e]

Checked fuses all A-OK. Extra fuse inserted for electric mirrors.
Removed switch, checked for power to switch NONE.
No link between rear heated window relay either.

Gonna have to wire them in. Anybody got any advice?
Would it be easier to remove the door for better access?
To make it easier can i take power from the electric window feed?
Don't want to pull to many volts through the wiring though.

[ASTOBBS]

take it from the windows yeah. Or kerb light. Window is fused at 30Amp, more than enough, and even then you wont be able to open windows and move mirrors simultaneously (due to lack of fingers) so the window feed will be fine. Just remember windows is a perm live and be aware, that if a mirror or, the switch developed a fault the wiring would melt before a 30Amp fuse would blow.
Kerb light system is on 20A, which would be better suited, kerb lights are ground switched, so perm live again. And again you wont be adjusting mirrors with the door open, so little danger of an overload.

Its virtually impossible to add wires into the door loom connectors, I've done a few but you need all the right pins etc, gets tedious.

Wouldn't take the door off, its a struggle.

[y0rk1e]

	Quote:
	Originally Posted by ASTOBBS take it from the windows yeah. Or kerb light. Window is fused at 30Amp, more than enough, and even then you wont be able to open windows and move mirrors simultaneously (due to lack of fingers) so the window feed will be fine. Just remember windows is a perm live and be aware, that if a mirror or, the switch developed a fault the wiring would melt before a 30Amp fuse would blow. Kerb light system is on 20A, which would be better suited, kerb lights are ground switched, so perm live again. And again you wont be adjusting mirrors with the door open, so little danger of an overload. Its virtually impossible to add wires into the door loom connectors, I've done a few but you need all the right pins etc, gets tedious. Wouldn't take the door off, its a struggle.

Thanks Andy,
yeah thought about that but need to check if power is to kerb light connector first. With regards to adding pins to the door loom connectors was going to try breakers strip a door loom down and use those pins in loom on my car but then again might as well get full loom from breakers if available.

Does anyone know if a diagram of the pins on the loom exists or have one? If so please upload or PM me and i'll supply email address.
thanks once again for assistance.

[y0rk1e]

just checked wiring again, no power to fuse 41 used by electric mirrors.
Gonna take the fuse box out tomorrow and see how easy it is to connect up.

Thing is with fuse out of 41 heated rear window light doesn't come on but when i put a 10A fuse in light comes on so there must be something there. However untill i look round the back won't know what!
Oh vauxhall why? why do you make life so hard at times!

[y0rk1e]

Just an update – now electrics is not my forte so apologies in advance

Checked the fuse box, fuse 29 and fuse 41. Fuse 29 pulls 8.86v and fuse 41 pulls 12.00v so wiring looks to be ok.

I’ve checked the wire to pin colours and they all match the wiring diagram.

Next I did a continuity check on the wires.
Switch to RH Mirror Assy.
pin 4 – pin 2 (green) OK
pin 5 – pin 3 (Black/Red) OK
pin 7 – pin 1 (Yellow) Ok
pin 2 – pin 5 (brown) Ok

Next checked the switch to the LH Mirror Assy.
pin 8 – pin 2 (blue) n/c
pin 5 – pin 3 (Black/Red) n/c
pin 3 – pin 1 (Grey) n/c
pin 2 – pin 5 (brown) OK

Switched on heated read window and checked pin 4 on both LH & RH – No current flowing

** So it looks like there is no power to the switch and no connections from the switch to the LH mirror assy. Also looks like no connection from the heated rear to the heated mirrors.

Next test is to find which pin going from the fuse box goes to where on the loom. However does anyone have a diagram of this to make things easier?

Does this sound right/logical?

[ASTOBBS]

did you flick the slider on the mirror switch over to the left mirror before checking for continuity there?

8.8 volts sounds wrong, what does fuse 29 handle, component wise i mean?

sounds to me like your wiring is rather incomplete. It does happen, my green vec had the TID display from factory, I upgraded to MID, but non of the wires for the additional sensors where present - except one, the coolant sensor.