[fsurfer]

Been thinking that now's the time to go std induction box with the k&n flat panel that will reduce the heat-soak.

[fsurfer]

Well std box is back on, strange there's seems to be wee bit more power there but no roar

Air temp has dropped obviously as it isnt drawing the hot air from the engine bay

Noticing the throttle more so, can't wait till the TPS arrives and see the diff it makes, so strange as if it has a mind of its own...I can open and close the throttle but there's a delay if that makes sense.

[fsurfer]

Just tried a temp fix on the TPS I found.

Throttle Position Sensor - TechWiki

In all cases a manual recalibration of the TPS may resolve the issues at least on a temporary basis. To recalibrate the TPS: -

1. With the engine off, insert the key and turn the ignition to position 2 (On) without starting the engine.
2. For MEMS-equipped cars (S1)Or S2 Rover engined cars, quickly but steadily press and release the accelerator pedal 5 times for TPS calibration, using all of the throttle travel as practicable. It is better to do this from the engine bay, using the cam on the throttle body, as this ensures you get 0-100% operation of the throttle, and correct calibration, If your throttle cable or mech does not give 100% throttle, calibration will be out. And potentially you will be wasting your time. This will trigger the ECU into the closed-throttle reference learn algorithm, which has it looking for the lowest measured static throttle position (the closed position). The throttle position calibration is a fixed definition from this point.
3. Turn the ignition off, remove the key and wait for the ECU to power down (about 30-40s).
4. Start car as normal.


Rise and fall seem better, but I am stiil fitting replacement TPS when it arrives.

[ASTOBBS]

Thats for a rover system. I've no knowledge of a vectra ECU doing that.

[fsurfer]

Yeah you're right, no harm in trying can't wait for the TPS to arrive then I'll wip the throttle body off + idler control valve and give them a good clean.

[matt-m]

No induction roar is boring I always rip out the 3 plastic pipes from the air box and fit a cold air feed in the bumper gril well behind the grill always seems to improve pick up done on 3 v6's now and drill the airbox bottom part on the inner wing side about 6 holes avg. 2.5mm think that the right size oh and fit my pipercross panel filter sounds good like that.

[fsurfer]

Hehe I know but I still have the exhaust tone and engine grunt, its strange apart from the dodgy tickover the car is picking up better than its done for a while this morning, able to foot down in all gears is back and she is shifting.

I do have a cold air feed in place, it enters through the drivers wing from across the lower bumper feed is through lower grill






but I've terminated it as I'm now using the std air box.. the pipe joining the std box to behind the grill is something I'll look at - Matt did you use that alloy pipe for that?

I have a genuine new k&n flat panel so that will be fine I think...drilling holes seen loads of chatter about that - think I'll leave that go

At the moment I'm focusing on getting the op-com readings down and stable, Andy and Lee are giving me loads of help in that area.