[ASTOBBS]

Have downloaded the how-to on total closure, from this site. It shows to link the wires in the N/S kick panel. My question is however refers to this text

then test the total closure works by locking the car with the remote
control and then deadlocking it. The electrically operated windows, and sunroof should now etc.

Does that mean, that the total closure only comes into effect on the second press of the button, ie. the deadlock feature?

I don't have the deadlock option on my alarm's fob - can still do it with key in door if needs must, but I never use it.
Where is the timed output coming from?

I might just get a ford timer relay and sort it using that if its easiest.

Thanks Andy

[Leeky]

	Quote:
	Originally Posted by ASTOBBS Have downloaded the how-to on total closure, from this site. It shows to link the wires in the N/S kick panel. My question is however refers to this text then test the total closure works by locking the car with the remote control and then deadlocking it. The electrically operated windows, and sunroof should now etc. Does that mean, that the total closure only comes into effect on the second press of the button, ie. the deadlock feature? I don't have the deadlock option on my alarm's fob - can still do it with key in door if needs must, but I never use it. Where is the timed output coming from? I might just get a ford timer relay and sort it using that if its easiest. Thanks Andy

From memory Andy, it looks on the second pulse.

If your using a GM remote control you can just press it twice to deadlock it.

If your using an aftermarket alarm I would suggest you use the total closure relay, rather than wire mod.

[ASTOBBS]

dang. timer relay it is then. Thanks for that, any idea which relay on the car is providing the extended feed to power the windows up? If it is indeed a relay - could be fancy electronics.

[Leeky]

Its just a pulse from a central locking wire. You send the pulse to the window wiring and it makes the windows/sunroof close up. Its not over-rideable though, so safety features built into the windows don't work.

In fairness, using a relay, or total closure kit is the better way of doing it for most people.

Im pretty certain doing it the total closure kit way sends the windows up on the frst click of the remote - Which is what you need as the deadlocks are redundant on your car anyway.

[fsurfer]

Total closeure uses the wiring in the o/s (drivers foot well)

See here

[Leeky]

Thats some very good information. From my brief look it appears that although the wiring is changed on the drivers side, its likely the same wire that runs through the dash and up the passenger side.

I've always done it on the passenger side of the car.

[fsurfer]

I can only go by my experience, purchased one from LMF the instructions clearly said the passenger side, I followed them to the letter - wasted a day, even returned it as faulty, received another....same and then it sat in its box for over a 2 years.

A few months ago I was having a tidy and found it, thought I want total closure, searched on the web and found the site I posted - they made the one I have, tried on the drivers side as they say and it worked first time.
Also contacted LMF afterwards to tell them

[Leeky]

	Quote:
	Originally Posted by fsurfer I can only go by my experience, purchased one from LMF the instructions clearly said the passenger side, I followed them to the letter - wasted a day, even returned it as faulty, received another....same and then it sat in its box for over a 2 years. A few months ago I was having a tidy and found it, thought I want total closure, searched on the web and found the site I posted - they made the one I have, tried on the drivers side as they say and it worked first time. Also contacted LMF afterwards to tell them

You don't need the box to do the total closure. I couldn't comment on that really as never used one, I just link the wiring between two wires under the passenger kick panel. Its free that way.

[ASTOBBS]

To be honest, that link with all the info on is a bit hard to follow. The fog lights one could be handy but having them come on during the day is a bit senseless, and by the time you're in remote range you can hear the bloody locks and home in on your car that way haha

Anyway I've sorted my total closure with a ford relay, my aftermarket alarm system has a wire dedicated to total closure which outputs a GND signal for 1 second, so I havn't had to modifiy the timer relay.

Spent a hell of a lot of time sorting one niggling thing today. I wired my alarm status LED wires straight into the cars original alarm LED, in the switch to turn off the ultrasonic sensors.

In doing so I lost the illumination of the switch when the lights are on, has been a right nightmare, god knows how the wires come together on those switches but its complex to say the least. All sorted now with some chopping and soldering though.

[Leeky]

Did you gut out the switch in the end and fit your LED inside it?