Here is a short guide/how to on fitting electric rear windows, when using omega parts.
Using omega parts is more involved and does require a little bit of conversion both mechanically and electrically. Having said that, when you can pick up both rear regs, door looms, door switches and gearstick switches for £25 + post on ebay (as I did) then the saving is there to be had compared to vectra units.
Firstly, what is different?
Omega central locking motors use a different plug to vectras
Omega tweeter position must be lower in door as the wire is too short for vectra
Omega door grommit is slightly differently shaped to vectra
Omega windows are designed to open fully, vectra's cannot
Omega gearstick switches are a different shape and colour
In my case, I had already bought the vectra gearstick switches and was looking at vectra regs. and looms before spotting the omega kit on ebay.
There are no pics of the proper vectra electric regulator in the how to that already exits, so whether this is omega specific or not I'm not sure
The omega item is both longer, and the rivets are placed differently on the motor side
Becuase the omega glass is designed to open fully, the mech. has a longer stroke - too long infact for the vectra, the glass will hit the metal work of the door itself. THIS MOD IS ESSENTIAL to avoid tears with smashed glass, strained motors, bent guide rails etc.
A hole needs drilling at 65mm from the end of the mechanism, that is the end of the slider part, not to the very end of the mechanism. I have drilled a 4mm hole as seen below
In the picture above, I have drilled through both sides - that was infact not needed, just drill through the first side - the larger side that is rearmost when in the door.
In this hole we need to insert an M4 bolt and nut
The bolt needs cutting down the extent that just enough sticks through to the inside of the slider to take a full nyloc nut. If it touches the wire, the window will be noisy.
Please refer to the existing howto for details on stripping the door down, and removing the winder etc.
Once you have got that far its time to rivet the electric mech. in
The top holes go back in the same place on the door
The bottom brackets sit lower in the door
and the edge bracket only allows for one rivet to be used. This fits in a VX hole, but one which was not used on the manual winder
Wiring Loom, you will need to add in 12" of tweeter wire to get it upto the door handle. I have soldered mine but you could use crimps.
As for the central locking motor, personally speaking even if I was installing a vectra wiring loom I wouldn't waste the time trying to unplug it, cut the wires and solder the new loom onto them.
In the case of the omega, you have to cut the wires to get round the mismatched plugs, I cut the omega plug off with 2" of wire left on it (always good practice) and cut the original doorlock wiring off 3" from where it splits away from the kerb light wires.
That concludes the mods.
I ran the wire for the door switch like so
and positioned the wires in this manner
For the grommit to plug the hole left by the winder, I found the vectra has a beautiful solution. The grommits used to cover to bolts on the N/S front crossmember (behind the dash) or any seatbelt bolt access point. This is the the one
It's got those lovely little teeth on it and everything - made for the job. Twist it as you fit it into the hole, and then uncurl the teeth on the inside of the door card. Was quite tight in my door cards, but I had to make the winder holes in them so to probably less tight in factory made holes.
sorry its a bit scatty, meant to take a good pic of the bolt mod to the mechanism, but forgot.