[Leeky]

Christ mate!

Erm, I'll have a read later this evening/tomorrow morning if thats OK. I've got both little ones running around me right now and I'd never be able to concentrate. lol.

[ASTOBBS]

haha it did take quite a while for it to cystalise for me.

when you read through, you'll come to this paragraph close to the end of the last post

Also TA and TB are now closed circuit, allowing 12v down to the compressor clutch. The return from the compressor clutch is routed through the afore mentioned flat 3 pin rad temp plug. It is a Bn/R wire coming to Pin3, which is connected to pin 1 (GND). I just need to check whether this connection is broken at rad temps of 115c - to remove engine load. (will edit when I know).




I have since checked out the functioning of the flat rad temp switch, it does infact cut the GND connection to the compressor at rad temp of 120c, and re-makes the connection once the rad temp. is down to 115c. Thanks

[Leeky]

I finally read all of that; A stunning amount of information, and kudos for taking the time to research it so well.

In regards too:

	Quote:
	SO I'M ASSUMING THAT on finding 2.5Bar on the AC line (the AC will not activate at extremly low pressures to protect the compressor unit) the ECU then checks that the outside temperature is more than 3 c.

Correct on both parts. If the temp is below 3/4'C the AC compressor will not function.

I can't give you the pressures, but again, I'm pretty sure the compressor will have pressure failsafes to ensure it doesn't run dry (which would be the case in a pressureless system).

	Quote:
	AGAIN AN ASSUMPTION, it could be that the gas used will not produce 2.5 below 3 c and the ECU does not actually have the facility to ping the outside air temp sensor. Infact I've a feeling the outside air temp sensor is driven purely by the TID/MID, please confirm/deny if you know.

I can't comment for sure on the first part of this, but the in reference to the sensor; the outside temperature sensor is purely a function of the MID/TID. Oh and the ice warning, which is for the TID/MID as well. I'm fairly certain its not used for anything else.

-------------------------------------

I'll have a look and see if I can confirm these tomorrow if you like. I might even be able to get you some additional information as well.

[ASTOBBS]

Yeh please, would be handy to know fully the triple switch. pin 3 which i refer to as B, is +12v IGN switched. Have got as far as the ecu connector plug with the bn/pp, b/w and b/bu wires which go into/come from the ecu, but I can't find a pinout diagram for the simtec 56.5 to move forward with what influences the ecu's decision regarding allowing ac to run.

I will find out the gas used and try to find out if at less than 3c it condenses so lowering the pressure on the rail to below 2.5bar.

also since writing, I have begun to wonder if the square ac plug, can actually switch one fan into Speed 3 before the other. As opposed to in unison as I have descibred there - again one I could only test with high(er) pressure equip, I might try to connect them to a motorbike brake cylinder using light oil not brake fluid to simulate higher pressures and really get the functioning nailed.

watch this space. Also have begun to strip down the loom to extract the wires I need, have got pics of all crucial stages, but wont post until I have finished.

[Leeky]

Some information I've found; I'm very sorry for the delay, had things beyond my control I had to attend to today.

I've attached 3 PDF's I feel will be of interest to you. They're all in regards to a 1997 X20XEV, Vectra with AC.

I hope they're of good use, even if they just confirm the obvious for you.

[ASTOBBS]

Thanks leeky. Will pour over them in more detail over the weekend. the second one clears up the switch pressures and functions nicely though.
Stand by for pictures, I have stripped down all the wiring I needed from the old loom. This saturday I wan't to get a set of aircon pipes to replace mine where they've worn through.
Then its dash out on sunday, and progress from there.

Oh and I've found a simtec pinout, not much use to me, but could be handy for other people.

http://www.euroscan.hu/files/sim565.pdf

[Leeky]

Sounds good to me mate.

Glad they're of some use. If you need anything specific by all means get in touch and I'll see if I can help.

[ASTOBBS]

had a succesful scavenge today at the scrappy. Got a new set of aircon pipes to replace the worn through ones. tomorow the fun begins.

[Leeky]

Don't forget to charge the camera.

[ASTOBBS]

Going to post this as I go, rather than a massive long post at the end.

Stripped the old loom down a few days ago, to get the wires I wanted
Starting with the fuse box, you have to press out two red tags, one as can be seen still in the box, the other sits between fuses 4 and 5.



With these removed the fusebox which is made up of many parts, needs sliding to allow the terminals to come out, I secured the two halfs in alignment with a cable tie



Then used a poke tool (ooer) to get inbehind the terminals and push them out, practiced the motion on some that I didn't need first



So worked through like that, removing all terminals relavent to the 3 aircon relays, and the main power feed from the 30A orange fuse.



Then onto the forward parts of the loom, this connecter which sits in the tunnel at the rear of the engine bay needs to be salvaged, as it has the 3 extra wires for aircon to ECU, these wires are not there on non AC models.



I cut the wires back about 8" from the plug, this will mean the soldered joints will be well inside the tunnel and dry. I also worked back from the white plug, pulling out the wires from that. getting as far back into the loom before cutting them off, this requires all tape is removed from the loom and the massive rubber grommit - I just hacked through it sideways with a blade, the wires are then encased in like bluetac but thinner, just peeled that off and binned it.

eventually got this


Got the wiring out for, blower fan, heater controls, recirc valve, bypass valve. Tried to leave all this intact as possible, some wires ofcourse go to the relays so I separated them off for now.




------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Got cracking today on getting the job started properly, took 2hours 40mins to get it down to this state.



Removing the internal crossmember is a swine of a job, haynes says take the doors off but thats not really needed. Had a harder time getting this one apart than I did the donor car, had to hold with pliers



and wedge washers in



To avoid the clever bolts from dragging the beam one way or the other and possibly bending something, I was also worried about putting stress through the windscreen as there are two hefty pins on the crossmember that engage in holes just below the windscreen.

Then these bolts on the pedal assy' are awkward as hell, the bolt part is spot welded to the crossmember - the pedal box must be fitted with the crossmember in the factory but there is no way I'm taking the pedals out, so just have to bend them a little.



Now working outside the car, get the scuttle trim off, and start to undo the heater unit,



Eventually you end up here



Now unplug the two wires from the fan, just pull. Then remove the fan.

And pull the resistor pack inside the housing so you can remove the plug from it




Undo the 'quick release' clamps on the matrix, it will take 30 minutes if they have not been off since being first assembled 13 years ago.

And undo the 3 8mm screws holding the heater unit to the bulkhead.
remove it from inside the car to leave this lovely sight



At this point I was stumped, I knew there was going to be work to do on the bulkhead to accept the unit, but I had not thought the bolt holes would be totally different too. so had to go upto the scrappy to take some measurements, datum points are pretty thin on the ground.

Anyway I eventually ended up here, three sets of lines later, and much cutting and hacking of carpet (the carpet is already almost cut through, so just cut the final parts) and hack away the sound proofing behind it.



Its not very neat in all honesty, but its functional.

As the light was fading, I added a strip of like edge finishing plastic - its basically a tube split - but made for the purpose.

and added a band of weather strip , which is actually from b & q for windows, but will serve to make sure the elements are kept out.



Finished the evening by getting the hoover out, and getting all the swarf and god knows what else cleaned up, and just had time to get the new heater unit in position and screwed in.