[Autovaleter]

A good, thorough car wash involves more than simply running your car through a machine.

What you will need:
1. Car wash soap. Don't use dish soap! Dish soap is hard on rubber components, plus it can remove your car's wax coat.

2. A wash mitt made of sheepskin or microfiber cloth. Both materials are designed to pick up and hold dirt' but a wash mitt makes the job easier and is kinder to your car's finish. Don't use towels; they merely push the dirt around rather than pick it up.

. Two buckets.

4. A drying cloth. Chamois (natural or synthetic) is the traditional choice, but it can scratch your car's paint. An absorbent waffle-weave drying towel makes the job faster and easier. You'll also need a few extra microfiber detail towels.

Pre-treat stains
If your car has bird droppings, dead bugs, sap, or other hard-to-clean stains on the paintwork, apply car wash soap directly to these stains. I use a spray bottle filled with undiluted car wash soap.(You can also buy dedicated products for this job).

Wash the wheels
If the wheels are really dirty -- and they probably will be -- wash them before the rest of the car. Don't wash the wheels if they are hot, as the heat will evaporate the cleaner and cause spots. You can use regular car wash soap, but a dedicated wheel cleaner makes the job easier.
Spray the wheels with a hose; consider wearing eye protection, as you never know what sort of gunk will get flung up. A soft brush is the best way to clean wheels, but if you are going to use a mitt or a sponge, don't use the same one you'll be using on the rest of the car! It may pick up dirt from the wheels that could scratch the paint. Use an old, dirty wash mitt or sponge. A detail brush or an old toothbrush is the easiest way to clean out small openings. Rinse thoroughly. Once you're done, take a step back -- it's amazing how much better a car looks with just clean wheels!

Initial rinse
Rinse down the car, starting at the roof and working your way down. Pay special attention to the area around the windshield wipers, as leaves and dirt tend to collect here.

After rinsing, open up the bonnet and boot and clean out any accumulated leaves and dirt. Spraying water with the bonnet open is not recommended, especially if you have some place to go that day; if the engine's electrical bits get wet the car may not start, plus the hose pressure can damage rubber seals that may have gotten brittle with age. The best way to clean these areas is to put on latex gloves and scrape out the dirt with your fingers.

Use two buckets
Why two buckets? A separate rinse bucket will remove the dirt that your wash mitt picks up. If you use a single bucket, you'll be depositing all that dirt into the soapy water, loading it back onto your wash mitt,and rubbing it all over your car!

Fill one bucket with car wash soap and water (mixed as per the instructions on the bottle) and the other bucket with clear water. Dip your wash mitt in the soapy-water bucket, wash a small section, then rinse your wash mitt in the clear-water bucket before reloading with suds.

Scrub!
Scrub your car from the top down. Don't press too hard on the mitt -- you want to avoid grinding in dirt that could scratch the paint. As you wash, it's important to keep the car wet, especially when you get to difficult patches such as bird droppings and sap. Use your hose to mist the car as needed. Sap can be removed with gentle thumb-nail pressure, but be careful not to get over-zealous and scratch the car.

Don't ignore small cracks and crevices, as these are places where dirt loves to collect. The wash mitt allows you to apply finger-tip pressure to many of these spots, but some areas may require a detail brush or a bit of improvisation. Be gentle when using a detail brush.

Quick suds-over
After you've scrubbed down the entire car, give it a quick once-over with your sudsy wash mitt. This will help avoid water spots -- most car wash soaps have an anti-spotting agent. (Dish soap doesn't, another reason not to use it.) Remember to rinse and reload the mitt frequently and work from the top down.

Final rinse
For your final rinse, remove the spray nozzle from your hose. Rinse from the top down, using a gentle stream of water to flood the surface of the car and allow the suds to cascade off. Keep the hose close to the car; extend your index finger or thumb just past the edge of the hose to avoid accidentally scratching the paint.

Primary dry
It's important to dry the car quickly to avoid water spots. We used Mother's waffle-weave drying towel, which is designed to absorb ten times its weight in water. You simply spread it out on the car and drag it across the surface, and it will pick up most of the water without scratching. It's much easier than using a chamois and less likely to scratch the car.

Detail dry
Use microfiber detail towels to remove any excess water. Open the trunk, hood and doors and use a microfiber towel to wipe out the doorjambs and other hidden areas; otherwise water will drip out and leave spots.

That's it, you're done! If it's been more than a year since you've polished and waxed your car, or if your rinse water didn't bead up (form distinct round droplets) on the surface, it's time for a coat of polish and wax.

I hope you all find this usefull.

Cheers
Ray.:teeth_smile:

[matt-m]

not the thread i thought it was going to be ............. pmsl

thats really good to know

can i ask a question having my red vec resprayed soon what would you say i should do to it start early and keep it gleaming but how whats the best

[Tom]

Nice post. Spot on.

*Stickied!*

[Autovaleter]

	Quote:
	Originally Posted by matt-m not the thread i thought it was going to be ............. pmsl thats really good to know can i ask a question having my red vec resprayed soon what would you say i should do to it start early and keep it gleaming but how whats the best

Thanks m8.

With reference to the respray are you sure you need one in the first place as more often than not a good compounding polish prodecure using either a rotary polisher a dual action machine will totally revive your paint.(Especially on red cars.)

[Autovaleter]

	Quote:
	Originally Posted by Admin Nice post. Spot on. *Stickied!*

Many thanks Tom.

[matt-m]

rusty mate bad paint job on back quater

[Autovaleter]

	Quote:
	Originally Posted by matt-m rusty mate bad paint job on back quater

Well after having it resprayed I'm sure the bodyshop will advize you when it can be polished and waxed, as for keeping it looking good just follow my wash procedure and my polishing and waxing quide when I complete that one.:thumbs_up:

[matt-m]

me an my dad are spraying it but will use your guide

good work bud

[violator]

any further with the washing and waxing guide bud ?

[Autovaleter]

I've just added a guide m8.

a guide to polishing your car.

hope this is of some help to you m8.