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  #11  
Old 17-03-09, 00:02
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Any overspray comes off with really fine wet and dry

I concentrate on the issue in hand and then worry about this later as its only a small panel that isnt on full show as its on a lower part of the car.

If primered, painted and laquered with care, overspray is kept to a minimum. the rest is removed with the final wet and dry stuff
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  #12  
Old 17-03-09, 00:23
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Originally Posted by AnnaV6 View Post
Any overspray comes off with really fine wet and dry

I concentrate on the issue in hand and then worry about this later as its only a small panel that isnt on full show as its on a lower part of the car.

If primered, painted and laquered with care, overspray is kept to a minimum. the rest is removed with the final wet and dry stuff
Thanks Anna- Very helpful.

Might give mine a go at the weekend
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  #13  
Old 17-03-09, 00:27
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No worries, if not then I will do it for you when I come up your way..

It will be before PV

I have done three cars this way, trial and error, saves payin bodyshop fees for minor repairs
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  #14  
Old 17-03-09, 00:36
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i need to to a tiny tiny spot on my back passenger door, but if i dont do it NOW it will only get worse, im thinkin of taking the door off, as i think it will be easier to do.
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  #15  
Old 17-03-09, 01:35
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right looking at this thread i can see that anna has a good point non-metallics can be done this way as they dont need ambient temps to key the colour , ive asked advice of my dad who has painted cars since the 70's so trust what he says metallics will look diffrent depending on the temp mixture and application of the paint
and is a reason a panel will be blown into another panel or 2 to get a match or even a full respray as a metallic will show or look diffrent in diffrent types of light , you can sand and laquer the paint to get the shine but need to machine wax/cut the paint work first with a buffer the sand paper only get's rid off the orange peel effect on the panel's , but anna as said post loads of pic's please in the project thread
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  #16  
Old 17-03-09, 01:44
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right looking at this thread i can see that anna has a good point non-metallics can be done this way as they dont need ambient temps to key the colour , ive asked advice of my dad who has painted cars since the 70's so trust what he says metallics will look diffrent depending on the temp mixture and application of the paint
and is a reason a panel will be blown into another panel or 2 to get a match or even a full respray as a metallic will show or look diffrent in diffrent types of light , you can sand and laquer the paint to get the shine but need to machine wax/cut the paint work first with a buffer the sand paper only get's rid off the orange peel effect on the panel's , but anna as said post loads of pic's please in the project thread
Thanks... VERY good point Matt. Mines pearl.. so I can forget doing just this small patch.

DAMN!
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  #17  
Old 17-03-09, 01:51
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Thanks... VERY good point Matt. Mines pearl.. so I can forget doing just this small patch.

DAMN!
after re-reading a saw that this would need to be pointed out as if you painted a car with a pearl it would never match neuther would a metallic but mine would be fine as its a base 2pk type paint
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  #18  
Old 17-03-09, 01:59
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after re-reading a saw that this would need to be pointed out as if you painted a car with a pearl it would never match neuther would a metallic but mine would be fine as its a base 2pk type paint
Yeh as soon as I started reading your post I clicked and remembered a guy told me about pearls before.. said he could't just spray part of the pnel if i wanted an original finish as it just wouldnt blend in properly.
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  #19  
Old 17-03-09, 02:22
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just as well i didnt ask my dad then (been a sprayer for 30 years as you know matt) he woulda kicked my ass lol, cheers bud...bloody pearlescent paints
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